Troubleshooting
What usually causes it, and what to check before replacing anything.
One side deploys, the other does not
Usually: A seized pivot from dirt or corrosion, far more often than a dead motor.
Check first: Disconnect the motor and move the arm by hand. If it is stiff by hand, the motor is not the fault.
Grinding noise, step moves slowly or stalls
Usually: Worn gearing, or a pivot binding under load.
Check first: Listen with the vehicle off. Grinding that changes with arm position points at the linkage, not the gearbox.
Works intermittently, no pattern
Usually: Connector corrosion or a chafed harness. On OBD-powered units the OBD connector itself is the most commonly reported electrical failure point in this product class.
Check first: Unplug and inspect the connector for green or white residue before replacing any component.
Vehicle throws a fault code after fitting
Usually: An OBD-connected module the vehicle does not expect.
Check first: Unplug the module and clear the code. If it stays clear, the module is implicated and the harness version is the fix.
Battery flat after the vehicle sits
Usually: A module holding the bus awake because it believes the tailgate is open.
Check first: Measure standby draw at the battery. Our modules sleep below the figure published on each product page.
Tailgate reports ajar when it is shut
Usually: A latch or weatherstrip sensor reading incorrectly.
Check first: Check the latch strikes fully before suspecting the module.
Kick sensor triggers rarely
Usually: Sensor position or sensitivity, commonly reported across this product class.
Check first: Confirm the sensor position against the fitting instructions before adjusting sensitivity.
Module has failed and I need the vehicle usable now
Usually: Not a fault to diagnose — a question everyone asks.
Check first: Every powered part we supply has a manual override. Use it, then contact us. You are never locked out by a failed module.